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SPRAY IT DOWN REAL GOOD WITH A COAT OF RUST BUSTER. THE BOLTS ARE USUALLY RUSTED BY THE HEAT OF BATTLE AND TIME. SO DON’T FORCE THE ISSUE. LET THE RUST BUSTER STUFF DO IT’S JOB. LET IT SOAK OVER NIGHT IF POSSIBLE.
AFTER SOAKING OVERNIGHT, OURS CAME OUT WITHOUT A HITCH. IF A BOLT IS TOO RUSTED IN, A LITTLE HEAT GOES A LONG WAY TO BREAKING THEM LOOSE. SOMETIMES A SHARP RAP STRAIGHT ON THE BOLT HEAD WITH A HAMMER WILL BREAK THE RUST BOND.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO TWIST ONE OFF, DRILLING IT OUT AND RETAP IS THE ANSWER. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE HOUSING OR BREAK OFF THE DRILL. THAT IS TOTAL DISASTER.
Index the housings with a scribe or center punch..
Slip the compressor housing over the wheel and align the index marks . Use the new bolts and tighten them to the proper torque. Use a universal socket. The turbo wheel should turn freely.
Clamp the exhaust manifold back in the vice.
When we disassembled the turbo, it was mentioned to keep these parts separate from one another. There are two thickness and they look alike. One set are the roller guides and the other set are spacers. NOTE the green arrow. The ones we want now are about the same thickness as the vanes.
THERE ARE THREE OF THESE PINS AND ROLLERS AT THIS LEVEL. KEEP THESE ROLLERS TOGETHER IN ONE LOCATION SO YOU CAN IDENTIFY THEM FROM THE SECOND SET.
Faces and aligns with this hole.
Bearing goes in next. Note the crescent cutout for the lock pin. Align with the pin hole.
Drop the pin in.