bar bar


A TURBO REBUILD SHOULDN’T BE AS DAUNTING AS  IT IS MADE OUT TO BE.    

FOLLOW THE STEPS AND YOU’LL BE ALRIGHT.


Some of the kits are universal to fit different models and configurations. You may have parts left over.

Getting the model number while the unit is on the car is near impossible. We are working on a 2001 Jetta Diesel ALH so the model # is a Garret VNT 15.

SECOND STEP WOULD BE; LET’S CHECK END PLAY AND SIDE PLAY OF THE TURBINE. IF THE TURBINE HITS THE SCROLL HOUSING, IT MAY BE JUNK. AND NOT REBUILD ABLE;  .

SPRAY IT DOWN REAL GOOD WITH A COAT OF RUST BUSTER.  THE BOLTS ARE USUALLY RUSTED BY THE HEAT OF BATTLE AND TIME. SO DON’T FORCE THE ISSUE. LET THE RUST BUSTER STUFF DO IT’S JOB. LET IT SOAK OVER NIGHT IF POSSIBLE.

AFTER SOAKING OVERNIGHT, OURS CAME OUT WITHOUT A HITCH.  IF A BOLT IS TOO RUSTED IN, A LITTLE HEAT GOES A LONG WAY TO BREAKING THEM LOOSE. SOMETIMES A SHARP RAP  STRAIGHT ON THE BOLT HEAD WITH A HAMMER WILL BREAK THE RUST BOND.

IF YOU HAPPEN TO TWIST ONE OFF,  DRILLING IT OUT AND RETAP IS THE ANSWER. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE HOUSING OR BREAK OFF THE DRILL. THAT IS TOTAL DISASTER.

THERE  IS A “C” CLIP THAT HOLDS THE SERVO LINKAGE IN PLACE.  REMOVE IT.

REMOVE THE BOLTS HOLDING THE COMPRESSOR SCROLL HOUSING IN PLACE.

Index the housings with a scribe or center punch..

THE COMPRESSOR SCROLL COMES OFF EASILY. NOTE THE SHINY SPOTS ON THE HOUSE. THIS SHOWS THAT THE TURBINE ASSY WAS HITTING THE HOUSING.


YOU CAN SEE THE WEAR ON THE TURBINE VANES.  THE WEAR HERE WAS VERY SMALL AND THERE WASN’T A ROLLED EDGE ON THE TURBINE. (ALL THESE PARTS ARE AVAILABLE)  WE CLEANED UP THE EDGES WITH A DIAMOND  JEWELERS FILE.

A LITTLE HEAT GOES A LONG WAY TO MAKING IT EASY TO SEPARATE THE EXHAUST SIDE FROM THE BEARING CARRIER.



DO NOT TWIST THE BEARING CARRIER IN THE EXHAUST SCROLL HOUSING!!!!!!!

THERE THREE PINS THAT WILLNOT ALLOW IT TO BE TWISTED.   


NOTE:

TAKE A LARGE PAIR OF CHANNEL LOCK PLIERS AND GRIP THE CENTER OF THE BEARING SUPPORT, ACROSS THE OIL DRAIN PORT. AND USE A HAMMER TO TAP ON THE PLIERS TO BREAK LOOSE THE BEARING CARRIER FROM THE SCROLL HOUSING.  DO NOT TWIST. DO NOT TWIST.

READ THE FOLLOWING  BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE.

THE OUTER RING ROTATES AND MOVES THE VANES OF THE NOZZLE. THESE ARE FROZEN UP.

THERE ARE THREE TORX  HEAD SCREWS HOLDING THE VANE UNIT IN PLACE. THERE ARE THREE ROLLERS AND PINS  THAT GUIDE THE OUTER RING. NOTE THE INDEXING OF THE RING. LOOK CLOSE AT THE END OF THE SCREW DRIVER AND YOU CAN SEE THE U SHAPED NOTCH IN THE OUTER RING. THIS IS WHERE THE  SERVO CAM FITS IN. I MARKED MINE. REMOVE THE SCREWS AND KEEP THE THREE  ROLLERS AND PINS TOGETHER BECAUSE THERE  IS ANOTHER THAT CAN BE MISTAKEN.

CARBON BUILDUP HAS LOCKED THE VANES IN PLACE.  VANE MOVEMENT HAS BEEN  VERY SMALL.

RED SCOTCH BRITE  WORKS GREAT FOR CLEAN UP. CHECK FOR WEAR IN THE AREA THE VANES MOVE IN. EXCESS WEAR WILL LOCK THE VANES IN PLACE .  WEAR HERE WILL REQUIRE A NEW MANIFOLD.

Well for most people. I took my 2 inch roll lock angle grinder and machined all the wear out. Then removed the same amount from the outer groove

A SHARP RAP WITH A HAMMER WILL LOOSEN THE TORX SCREWS.

ONE END OF THE  TURBINE HAS TWO FLATS. CLAMP THAT IN THE VISE. DON’T TRY TO USE A WRENCH.

USE A SOCKET ON THE NUT END,  THIS IS A LEFT HANDED THREAD.

NOTE THE DIRECTION THE THUMB IS POINTING.

WITH THE TURBINE REMOVED, FOUR TORX SCREWS HOLD THE BEARING CARRIER IN PLACE.  REMOVE THEM.USE THE HAMMER AGAIN TO BREAK THEM LOOSE IF NEEDED.

REMOVE THE O RING

REMOVE THIS LOCKING PIN WITH NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS.  THIS KEYS THE BEARING IN AND KEEPS IT FROM TURNING.

REMOVE THE THRUST PLATE. NOTE THE BIG GROOVE  WORN IN THIS PLATE. IT’S NOT SUPPOSED TO BE THERE. THIS IS WHERE MY OIL LEAK WAS COMING FROM.  THE OIL SAT IN THE BOTTOM OF THE INTER COOLER UNTIL I WAS MERGING WITH TRAFFIC AT FULL THROTTLE. THE OIL SUCKED INTO THE ENGINE AND THE THING WAS A WILDCAT FOR A FEW MOMENTS. PEOPLE BEHIND ME WERE PULLING OFF THE ROAD BECAUSE OF THE INTENSE SMOKE. THIS WAS OUT OF SIGHT UNTIL THEN, IT WENT OUT WITH A BANG. THREE RODS BENT. I HAD TO GO TO THE DEALERSHIP TO GET NEW RODS. $400.00. NO, NOT SCAT, OR EAGLE JUST 2001 JETTA TDI RODS. I HAVE ONE STRAIGHT ONE LEFT IF YOU NEED IT. CHEAP!

NOTE: REMEMBER WHICH WAY THE GROOVE GOES

CHECK THESE BEARING SURFACES. ABSOLUTELY NO GROOVING ALLOWED.

OLD SEAL WITH THE EDGE OF A UTILITY KNIFE.

There is more than one seal included in the kit. Compare the new seal with the old one and put the cast seal ring in the groove


Sorry about the dirty plate.

This pic is when I took it apart but it shows where this seal goes.  


Slip the compressor housing over the wheel and align the index marks . Use the new bolts and tighten them to the proper torque.  Use a universal socket.  The turbo wheel should turn freely.

Clamp the exhaust manifold back in the vice.

When we disassembled the turbo, it was mentioned to keep these parts separate from one another.  There are two thickness and they look alike. One set are the roller guides and the other set are spacers.  NOTE the green arrow. The ones we want now are about the same thickness as the vanes.

89b

TAP THE PLIERS FROM  THIS SIDE. DO NOT ROTATE THE PLIERS.


THERE  ARE THREE OF THESE PINS AND ROLLERS AT THIS LEVEL. KEEP THESE ROLLERS TOGETHER IN ONE LOCATION SO YOU CAN IDENTIFY THEM FROM THE SECOND SET.

THE BEARING IS EASILY REMOVED NOW.

NOTICE WHICH WAY THIS HEAT SHIELD IS CUPPED BEFORE YOU PULL THE TURBINE OUT.  

REMOVE THE THRUST BEARING.

THERE IS SOME WEAR ON THE BLOWER TURBINE BUT NOT ENOUGH TO HINDER. A JEWELERS FILE REMOVES ANY EDGE THAT MIGHT BE A HINDRANCE. NEW  REPLACEMENT WHEELS ARE AVAILABLE. AGAIN, THE WEAR HERE IS VERY MINOR. DELICATE LITTLE THING THAT SPINS AT SPEEDS UP TO 150,000 RPM. IF YOU ARE THINKING OF THE CHINESE TURBO'S, WISDOM SUGGEST GETTING THE TURBINE ASSY RE-BALANCED. CHEAP INSURANCE.

THE NEW SEAL SLIPS RIGHT ON WATCH WHICH WAY THE GROOVE GOES.  I  TOLD YOU TO REMEMBER.

This groove!!                                                             


Faces and aligns with this hole.

Bearing goes in next. Note the crescent cutout for the lock pin. Align with the pin hole.


Drop the pin in.